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  1. 4

    I understand your points but I find interresting too to compare the different skills of the climbers. I'm thinking to powerlifting where there is 3 movements, each athlete can be specialist of one but the goal is to be a complete powerlifter, like strong with every muscle. There is a medal for each movement but the winner remains the best of three. I just find very interresting to also consider versatility as a true athletic quality, maybe we could find a format to reward as much climber ho chose to specialise than those who are good in any type of climbing.

  2. 5

    The biggest problem by far with Sport Climbing's Olympic debut was the terrible commentators they dug out of some random broadcast network for the event. That main dude was constantly yelling and blabbering generic crap at the audience, while the women would try to explain the physics behind the sport with clearly no actual knowledge of climbing or physics.
    Thankfully the format will be completely different in Paris 2024, with Speed being a separate event (still tournament bracket sadly tho), then Boulder+Lead comined, where climbers earn scores out of 100 based on successful moves, with the points from each discipline then added together to form the athlete's final points total, which determines their placement and medals. The max possible score for B+L will be 200 points, requiring flashing every boulder and topping the lead wall. This new format also includes 2 zones for bouldering, which I think is much more fair when the last few moves are fkin hard but you get no extra reward unless you top. It has been successfully tested and tweaked over the European and World Championships in 2022 and 2023, so I'm really excited to see it during the Olympics. What remains to be seen is if they will use the experienced and competent commentators that have been covering IFSC competitions for many years or if they'll call up some randos once again depending on the region and language of the broadcast. Ugh. I'm Canadian, so I sincerely hope we get the general UK-English coverage with Matt Groom and someone else, possibly Shauna Coxsey or Meghan Markle.

  3. 6

    Crazy how swimming gets the medals and climbing doesn’t. The strokes, as different as they are, are basically identical when compared to the differences between like speed climbing and bouldering.

  4. 7

    It is truly like handing out medals for an event combining the 100m dash and the marathon, because "it is both running". The elitist mindset of the olympics is just ridiculous. Just because something is around forever doesn't mean it deserves 10 times as many medals. They allow so many cool new sports, why not also take them seriously?

  5. 16

    Your point is absolutely correct. I for some reason didn't think of the absurdity. Now you've pointed it out, I'm feeling pissed off about it. It's ridiculous, and needs amending immediately… Either that or give just one medal for all events on track… 1 medal 🏅 for all of swimming 🏊🏽… And all cycling should be just one medal 🏅 band so on and so forth…it's stupid…

  6. 18

    Its the number of athletes not medals. Swimming has a lot of multi-event athletes and a low max team size for the number of events than can leave qualified swimmers at home for teams like the US.

  7. 20

    This take is really disingenuous, mostly because of omission and disrespect towards speed climbing. first I get it, I don’t like speed climbing, it’s completely different to boulder/lead and I know most climbers think less of it, but it is its own discipline that’s just as difficult in its own way, and despite not liking the fact that they joined it with the other two, it did not and should not count for less.

    The arguing against the bracket format without disclosing that that is how all speed climbing comps are is disingenuous. It doesn’t matter who had the fastest time in one of their goes the entire comp, this is a race vs format, not time trials round robin or some shit. Like in football and other match sports the team that wins is not the one that had the match with the most goals, it’s the one that wins its matches and eliminates its competition. The route is the same even outside the comp, if you only care about their fastest time with no regard for matches might as well skip the comp and just rank them by their all time best.

    That’s the other disingenuous part, the spaniard didn’t “basically get 5th” and combined with his other mid and bad results somehow got 1st. Be honest, he got 1st place in speed, he won all of his races including the final, and he also received a mid and a terrible result in the other two disciplines. All the other climbers who did great in one category either did even worse in the other two or did better on average, but didn’t get first place in any category. The reason he won and ondra failed is that the committee gave first place in all disciplines a disproportionate amount of points specifically to favor competitors who won at least one of the disciplines in order to decrease the likelihood of having a gold medalist who simply managed to do average to good in all categories without winning any of them. by being displaced from first in lead ondra didn’t get any 1st place and suffered as a result. Again, even knowing this was specifically to prevent mid-good resulta all throughout from winning you gold you phrased it intentionally to make it seem like the guy got terrible placings on all 3 and somehow still won.

    Also, the issue is not the number of medals, it’s the number of participants. Separate medals means separate participants, in other words more olympic spots, which is harder to get and is actually what the IFSC is hoping to get more of in future olympics. Luckily in Paris only lead/boulder will be combined, and in the future likely 3 separate medals will be had and hopefully more olympians too, and this format might have been a necessary evil, but there is no need to lie at the expense of one of the disciplines and the gold medalist.

  8. 22

    The issue with medal is not the cost of making more medals, but the fact that the number of medal in the Olympics is supposed to be constant. Meaning that adding a new sport implies removing one medal elsewhere

  9. 23

    The speed climbers qualified the same way the other lead and boulderers – finish top 8 in the world champs or Olympic qualifier. They weren’t just chucked in. Also Mawem wasn’t the only male speed climber, Rishat from Kazakhstan and Luduvico from Italy were as well.

  10. 24

    I agree … however, it being the first time is no excuse to f**k up the format as badly as they have. I looked at it for 2 minutes (before the start of the tournament) and was like "this is bad, this is REALLY bad" okay, I do statistics for a living, but how the hell can 10+ organisers in a year not see that the granularity of that format is absolutely unusable? You don't even need to understand the math behind it, just play out some examples and you see how messed up the dynamics is.

  11. 29

    The Olympics has been obsessed with keeping the number of Olympians down, and they think the best way is to either keep the number of medals down, or only add medals that can be competed for by competitors already at the Olympics – so swimming having 37 medal events is fine, because the same people compete in most of the events (a 100m and a 50m with almost exactly the same field, etc). Apparently (for most sports, ie anything that can use a regular soccer/football style stadium or an arena and doesn't need a custom building like cycling needing a velodrome or baseball needing a stadium of a non-standard shape), the cost of putting on the event is pretty small compared to the cost of making the Olympic village bigger to house the extra Olympians. The medals, since you mentioned them, the bronze and silver medals are actually bronze and silver, the gold medal is solid silver and coated in gold. But they're not a big factor in the costs.

    If they had added bouldering, lead and speed as separate events, then there would have needed to be many more climbers at the Olympics, as few of the climbers would have qualified for multiple events.

    The IFSC did the right thing, though – by putting on the event, they demonstrated the problem with a single medal to the IOC, and they've got a second medal for 2024, so speed climbing will be separate from a combined lead/bouldering event. They may be able to go to four medals at some point if they can convince the IOC that most of the entrants into the combined, lead and bouldering events will be the same people: one of the criteria the IOC uses to assess a sport is number of competitors per medal; the fewer the better (so the more you can get competitors to enter multiple events, the better).

  12. 32

    They should do it similar to like the IM in swimming, or the pentathlon in track, so that each discipline is it’s own event but there’s the 3 as one to see who’s most well rounded between all of them as a 4th event

  13. 33

    Let's be honest, your research about the Olympics could not have been more than reading through one reddit thread. Stick to climbing commentaty or put in some actual work

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